GTX Academy: Diamond discs – full/segment/turbo
2026-01-30
MOTO 2026 catalog – comprehensive equipment for a modern workshop
2026-02-26The choice of blade affects the speed of work, the linearity of the cut and the aesthetics of the edge. To avoid splintering in the material, overheating or "running away" of the accessory when cutting in a curve - you need to consciously look at four key elements: the type of handle (T or U), blade material (HCS/HSS/BIM), TPI tooth density and tooth geometry (including the inverted tooth variant for laminates). Below you will find specific tips with practical hints for do-it-yourselfers.
Handle: T-shank or U-shank?
Jigsaws on the market today overwhelmingly work with a T-shank blade mount. This standard offers a fast, rigid mount and a very wide selection of accessories (for wood, board, metal, plastic). U-shank you will meet rather in older designs or in selected budget models. This type of shank requires the use of appropriate tools (such as an allen wrench or screwdriver) to tighten the pressure screw holding the blade. This is less convenient than modern tool-free (T-shank) systems.
Before you buy a set of blades, check the specifications of your machine to see what type of shank you need. Using the wrong shank will result in backlash, vibration and edge deterioration, and in extreme cases risk the blade slipping out of its mount.
Blade material and TPI - choose to match the task
HCS (carbon steel) works best with wood, wood-based panels and plastics. It is flexible, forgives minor accessory guiding errors, and allows you to cut quickly in soft materials.
HSS (high-speed steel) is harder and more resistant to high operating temperatures - a good choice for sheet metal and thin profiles. It provides a stable line and less risk of "baking" into the metal when rotated correctly.
BIM (bi-metal: HSS + HCS) combines resilience and strength, so it works well in mixed materials (e.g., plate with screws, soft metals, multipurpose work). It stays sharp longer and withstands overload better.
TPI (Teeth Per Inch) defines the density of teeth:
- 6-8 TPI - fast, rough cuts in solid wood and thick sections; the edge will be rougher.
- 10-12 TPI - a compromise between speed and edge cleanliness - for slabs and engineered wood; a good "everyday" choice.
- 15-21 TPI - slower but cleaner cutting in laminate/furniture boards and thin metal; less tear-out and better control.
When choosing a TPI, pay attention to the thickness of the material: the thinner or the more prone to chipping, the more teeth per inch you need. In metals, too small a TPI can "jerk" and overheat the blade. On the other hand, too large a TPI in thick wood can "cork up" the chip and slow down the work.
Shape and alignment of teeth and their effect on edge quality
- Ground, bifurcated is a profile for fast cuts in wood. The teeth, set in alternating positions, "spread" the cut, so the blade wedges less, but the resulting edge is sometimes rougher.
- Ground, taper provides a clean, precise edge - each tooth runs full width, reducing breakouts in panels and veneered parts. Ideal for assembly and furniture work.
- Milled, corrugated creates a "wave" that stabilizes contact with the material. It's a versatile choice for wood and thin sheet metal when you want a straight guide and the edge to be optimally smooth - without slowing down too much.
- Milled, variable speed up work in wood and metal, well "cut through" contaminants (e.g., staples, screws), but the edge is less aesthetically pleasing - it's a profile for a working cut.
Reversed tooth - when is it worth it?
The reverse tooth is characterized by an upward-facing tip , so it cuts well from the face. The result is a smooth, intact surface visible after installation (laminate panels, veneered countertops, fronts). A blade with this type of serration reduces tear-out on the top, but requires sure guidance, lower speeds and good support of the board. If you don't have an inverted-tooth blade, you'll get a similar effect by cutting the material from underneath with a backing (but this solution will be less predictable with thin veneers).
Some tips for getting started
Quick selection download
- Laminate/furniture board: BIM or HCS, 10-21 TPI, tapered grind; preferably use reverse tooth and low orbit.
- Solid wood, pace: HCS, 6-8 TPI, bifacial or alternate cut, orbit 2-3.
- Thin metal/plate: HSS or BIM, 18-21 TPI, corrugated; low speed, even feed, no doping.
3 most common mistakes → quick solutions
- Chipped/ragged edges in the plate - increase TPI, switch to convergent grinding, reduce RPM; when high edge aesthetics are needed, use an inverted tooth and backing from underneath.
- "Running away" in an arc / broken, irregular line - change to a curved blade (narrower, more flexible), slow down the feed and guide it along the radius - do not try to "straighten by force".
- Heating and "locking" in metal - you have too small a TPI or you are working on HCS instead of HSS/BIM. Go to 18-21 TPI HSS/BIM, lower the RPM, cut with short pulses and let the blade cool down.
Where to buy
Optimal blade selection is based on several key decisions: handle, blade material, TPI and tooth geometry. You'll find a full portfolio of blades at NEO TOOLS and GRAPHITE. Go to fixero.com and see what we have prepared for you. For more advice and tips on accessories, check out our GTX Academy.
